Tencel fiber fabric quality problem is the unevenness of fluff, color, color block,Puma Baylee Future Cat, neps, stains, creases, etc., the main impact fiber fibrillation and wet expansion and variation of fiber dyeability. Should improvements to strengthen the control of fiber fibrillation and use of select textile dyeing and finishing processes, equipment and dyes, in the post-processing to prevent wrinkles, reduce friction, extrusion and damage.
Tencel fiber with natural fiber moisture absorption, high strength wet and dry polyester fiber, viscose fiber, drape and silk fiber feel. products made of good wearability, dimensionally stable processing by its underwear, shirts, divided skirts, casual wear, jeans grade knitted apparel and industrial goods by the consumers favor products have swept the world, China has introduced the technology of mass production, and further the trend to replace the viscose fiber. However, many product quality problems, the overall level is not high, which more prominent smooth fabric whitening color, color block cotton grain class of defect products more; peach skin fabrics the fluff uneven; monochrome class blended fabric color is more common; the folding of the thick fabrics marks, scratches, stains and other defects of goods is more serious. these defect products with certain characteristics of Tencel fiber related.
1 Tencel fiber properties and product defect analysis
1.1 fiber surface fibrillation
of Tencel The fiber has a high degree of crystallinity, fiber cross-section uniform, but the combination of weak and flexibility, such as by mechanical friction, the outer layer of fiber fracture, the formation of a length of about 1 to 4 microns fibril fluffy, especially in wet and easier to produce so serious that it tangles into cotton grain.
fibrillation has a dual effect. uneven local fibril formation of the uneven appearance of the product, leading to quality differences, differences in hue as well as cotton, grain defects. fibrillated uniformly generated allows the fabric was suede apparent, a jeanette style fabric, but also make the jeans more natural feeling and old-fashioned sense to use the characteristics of fibrillation can also be made of nonwoven filter materials and specialty paper. Thus, fibrillation, must be artificially control and use of moisture expansion

1.2 fiber Tencel fiber with high expansion, expansion up to 40% in the water. imparts excellent drape and fluid movement, but will make stiff fabric in the wet state, especially in the thick fabric weight per unit area larger so easy to crease the fabric dyeing and garment processing dyes, abrasions and stains and other defects, such defects with a strong and aids easy access to the internal fiber, it is the beginning of the infection rate is quite high and could easily lead after about color, select varieties with high rates of early dye in the dye of choice should be several times with salt, repeatedly alkali control color. its color yield than the average natural fibers; its blended, mixed fabrics dyed with the color difficult, we must consider the strict control of the hue of the stain will fibrillation impact, and therefore control the movement of the ingredients and dye essential. fibrillation can be controlled through the dyeing process due to the presence of surface fibrillation, dyeing may surface lower
Tencel fiber and wool interwoven the two-step staining, the two fibers mutual staining. hank dyeing with reactive dyes and the weak acid dyes and wool blended yarn, blended yarn strength will significantly decline, affecting the normal weaving
2 fiber fibrillation control and use
2.1 Tencel fiber select
Tencel fiber has two kinds of models: Gm100 form into standard form, prone to fibrillation. the Am100 type is not easy to produce fibrillation, but the strength is slightly lower by about 10%, compared with ordinary dyeing process, especially for knitted fabric, but it can not produce jeanette style. the filament fiber in Lyecell Newcell According to reports, does not produce fibrillation, can be used with other fibers intertwined.
2.2 yarn and fabric structure on the fibrillation
high yarn twist and compact fabric, the end of the short fibers can be more firmly integrated in the fabric, and later in the wet process, fibrillation and pilling tendency of smaller general ring yarn twist factor can increase to 350 to 370, the use of rotor-spun yarn hairiness less spinning process
2.3 the fibrillation
chemical fiber is generally of equal length, short fiber content is very low yarn hairiness than cotton much less, but if the spinning process properly will result in a significant increase in short fiber content and hairiness; This is a fabric or garment dyeing and finishing of the potential risk of fibrillation. fiber spinning when the fracture, injury, especially denier fiber-prone, it is caused by the short fiber content, the root cause of the increase in hairiness.
2.4 Dyeing and Finishing of the impact of the fibril
2.4.1 dyeing process of fibril
of Tencel common fabric dyeing and finishing process is as follows:
which applies generally smooth fabric, it can be primary fibrillation and secondary fibrillation of
2 peach skin fabrics, generally required primary fibrillation, staple fiber yarn of varying lengths within the end as far as possible the release of the original fiber is then removed by enzymatic treatment, and then after staining with secondary fibrillation to get the hair evenly and neatly peach skin velvet style.
2.4.2 before dyeing deal with fibrillated the control
singeing eliminate the basis of the fibril fabric central singeing can sometimes cause wrinkling can be singeing moved to retire pulp.
the increase in the primary fibrillation before the caustic soda mercerized to improve the luster of the fabric and dyeing properties, but also can reduce the fiber crease the possibility of fiber impact and rope dyeing, but Tencel fiber poor alkali resistance, to use the low-alkali cold heap handle.
fibrillation general by dyeing machinery of rubbing, friction in wet conditions, peach skin fabrics can be dyed before or after mechanical buffing machine or emery machine buffing method for the fibrillated.
the removal of fibril general by the enzyme treatment process solution should be used in better enzyme preparations .100% of Tencel fabric is preferable to acidic enzyme; of Tencel and cotton, hemp blended fabrics to use the neutral enzyme,puma shoes, and are subject to a reasonable set of process parameters, so that full removal of the original fiber, fabric strength decreased smaller
2.4.3 dyeing equipment and fibrillation Hua
of Tencel fabric dyeing method more width dyeing machines (jigger, cold pad, pad, etc.) are generally difficult to produce fibrillation and wrinkled print, suitable for general smooth fabric rope dyeing equipment ( airflow dyeing machines, overflow dyeing machines, etc.) are prone to fibrillation, and more applicable to the peach skin fabrics. abroad generally recommended airflow dyeing machine, which enables the fabric to withstand full friction, changing the contact surface; add a smoothing agent also prevents the generation of the crease, but also a continuous fabric junior fibrillation, enzyme treatment, dyeing and other functions, such as equipped with finishing drying, cast loose machine can reduce processing fibrillation tendency to make the product soft and plump .
2.4.4 dye and the fibril
Tencel fiber fabric can be use direct, active, naf properly dye, but the most used reactive dyes, if the choice of the formation of cross-linked with fiber molecular chain double or three reactive dyes, can reduce or prevent the impact of the staining Central Plains fiber; the contrary, such as to produce the the jeanette style products, a single reactive dyes should be selected.
2.4.5 Resin finishing the original fiber of impact
resin finishing processing after the dyeing process. it can reduce the dissolved swelling of the Tencel fiber and anti-crease effect; also make the fabric wet hardness to reduce, avoid the fibrillation tendency of the resin The dosage can not be too high, otherwise it will form the fiber brittle point, to generate new fibril phenomenon, also a disadvantage. by means of joined amino silicone and other softener can reduce fibril brittleness, improve fabric peach skin lasting surface properties of resin finishing cause the fabric to make up for reduction in strength. of
3 Tencel fiber chromatic aberration control
of Tencel fibers, woven products more prominent problem of chromatic aberration of the same color stain must do a two-component fiber dyeing. shade, color fastness to this end the use of dyes and careful screening, determination of color values ??of the two fibers, average of only dye the same color better color control. two melting staining to join the anti-agent to prevent staining. some factories respectively dyeing loose fiber, can reduce the role of short staining time while addressing the contradictions of the interaction of the two types of fiber dyeing environment, and can meet the comprehensive product hue, short need the measured color and staining techniques and strict management measures in order to ensure color consistency. the weaving, dyeing and garment processing
4 creases, scratches, stains and other defects the prevention
before stated that the Tencel fiber wet expansion, prompting the cloth body stiff, creases, scratches, stains and other defects by the role of friction, pressure and folding, easy to produce, especially thick fabrics such as denim. class of defect is difficult to find in the later processing, but by washing is very difficult to eliminate it must be stressed prevention based.
4.1 to reduce creases, scratches, stains and other defects basic points
of (1 ) fabric to improve wet expansion can be Tencel fiber and water swelling of the smaller fibers such as polyester, nylon and blended,puma ferrari, interwoven, and appropriate reduction in the fabric warp and weft density Reference (2) fabric to minimize switching cars crosspiece. side support faults, folds,Puma Speed Cat Big, dense road defects, to prevent localized fabric stiff and injury.
(3) maximize the use of reel packaging, do not discount rate packaging, without the rope bundle bundled, reduce creasing and crease.
(4) reduce the fabric, finished fabric, apparel and man-made variety of physical pressure and friction due diligence to prevent damage and puncture of the fabric, nail pressure, knife
(5) In order to prevent dyeing and finishing generated in the crease and rub injury should be added a small amount of smoothing agent, softener
(6) using the roller diameter, the speed is low, dyeing, washing equipment, fabric freedom of movement, reduce friction, the agent pressure to produce wrinkles and abrasions.
4.2 garment processing to prevent the production of such defects main measures
of (1) open cut with scissors without a knife;
(2) tentering when you do not pin or nail staples, clips can be used spray adhesive or adhesive tape; clothing storage or transshipment of semi-finished
(3) try to lie flat or hang to avoid creases;
(4) sewing foot pressure and feed dog adjustment to be proper, do not pull push; Park using scalp acupuncture, do not tip needle; bur wear to be transferred in stitching density to control, prevent seam wrinkling. Do not the placket use lining. suture to be cut , do not pull off.
(5) clothing washed with hot water, add a smoothing agent, and controlling the amount can not exceed 80% of capacity, while controlling the temperature and time.
(6) recommended the non-iron resin finishing to avoid ironing crease defect.
5 Conclusion (1) Tencel fiber products are environmentally friendly products, in line with the development trend of the times, because of its excellent performance, will certainly popular in the world, although currently priced at higher, but with the increase in production, process improvement, and improvement, prices will inevitably decline is expected that will replace all or most of the serious pollution performance as the Tencel of viscose fiber. Reference (2) of Tencel fiber fibrillation dyeing and finishing of the key in order to avoid fibrillation or use of the fibrillating production jeanette fabrics, dyeing and finishing processes, equipment, dyes and fiber varieties must be selected.
(3) dyeing and finishing processes should be based on The fabric structure of raw materials (Tencel fiber spinning, blended, interwoven), the fabric structure (density, weight), the fabric categories (woven fabric, knitted fabric, peach skin fabric, etc.) is properly selected.
(4) Tencel garment processing, the key is to prevent creases, scratches, stains and other defects generated, this must be avoided folded fabric, friction, extrusion and damage.
(5) In view of the special requirements of the Tencel fiber dyeing and finishing, it is recommended using closed-end production and personnel management mode.
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